Audio walk

Sultanahmet and the Underground Cisterns

Sultanahmet and the Underground Cisterns
Main image: AI-generated illustration. It may not show the place exactly as it looks.

Walk from Çemberlitaş past two underground reservoirs to the old Hippodrome, then compare the domes of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia from Sultanahmet Square.

6 stopsabout 75 minuteson foot

This Sultanahmet walking tour traces Istanbul’s history from underground water stores to the domes above its best-known square. Allow about 75 minutes for the walk and listening pauses. It suits first-time visitors who want to understand how the landmarks fit together. Start at Çemberlitaş, then pass the Şerefiye and Binbirdirek cisterns before following the line of the old chariot track at the Hippodrome. Finish by comparing the silhouettes of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia from the square.

The route at a glance

  1. Çemberlitaş (Fatih)
  2. Şerefiye Cistern (Fatih)
  3. Binbirdirek Cistern (Fatih)
  4. Hippodrome of Constantinople
  5. Blue Mosque exterior
  6. Hagia Sophia exterior
  1. 1

    Çemberlitaş (Fatih)

    Once you’re clear of the tram platform, look for the tall stone column wrapped in dark bands. This is the Column of Constantine. It once stood in the middle of a Roman forum. Today, the trams and shopfronts make it easier to picture a busy public place than an empty monument. Our next stop is below street level. From the column, head down Piyer Loti Caddesi and look for the entrance to Şerefiye Cistern.

  2. 2

    Şerefiye Cistern (Fatih)

    Pause outside the cistern and look at the buildings around you. Beneath this ordinary stretch of street is a chamber built to store water for Constantinople. If you go inside, look up at the rows of marble columns. They hold up brick vaults that carry the weight overhead. Take a moment to imagine the space filled with water. For our next stop, make your way east towards İmran Öktem Caddesi and look for the Binbirdirek entrance.

  3. 3

    Binbirdirek Cistern (Fatih)

    Here on İmran Öktem Caddesi, you’re beside another underground reservoir. The name Binbirdirek means a thousand and one columns, an expression that gives you a sense of how crowded the chamber feels. If you go inside, look at the tall supports. Their stone shafts were set one above the other to reach the vaults. You can hear this stop from the street, too. Continue towards Sultanahmet Square and find the tall Egyptian obelisk.

  4. 4

    Hippodrome of Constantinople

    Stand where you can see the tall stone obelisk, then look along the length of the square. This was the Hippodrome, where crowds watched chariot races. The obelisk came from ancient Egypt and was set up along the barrier that divided the track. Look down at its carved base for figures watching from an imperial box. That gives you a glimpse of the audience as well as the arena. Now turn towards the Blue Mosque beside the square.

  5. 5

    Blue Mosque exterior

    Find a spot on the public approach where you can see the Blue Mosque above the courtyard wall. Start with the small domes and let your eye follow them up towards the central one. Then look at the slender minarets around the building. The blue in the mosque’s familiar name comes from tiles inside, while out here the shapes of the domes are what stand out. Continue across Sultanahmet Square towards Hagia Sophia.

  6. 6

    Hagia Sophia exterior

    Step back on the square until you can take in Hagia Sophia’s dome and the broad walls below it. The central dome looks low and wide from here. Notice the heavy buttresses against the outer walls and the minarets rising beyond them. The building began as a Byzantine church and later became a mosque. Before you finish, turn back towards the Blue Mosque and compare the two rooflines. From this square, you can see how differently they fill the space above you.

Final thoughts

From Çemberlitaş to this square, you’ve followed the story of a city that stored water beneath its streets, gathered crowds at the Hippodrome and built some of its most recognisable landmarks around the same open space. If you feel like another short walk, head downhill to Gülhane Park for a change of pace among the trees.

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