Araf: Istanbul’s Michelin-Starred Open-Fire Counter

Araf Istanbul is a 12-seat Michelin-starred restaurant on Istanbul’s Asian side in Kadıköy, opened by husband-and-wife chefs Kenan and Pınar Korgan Çetinkaya. The restaurant centers on an open fire, with all seating at a counter bar that faces the cooking.

Awarded its first Michelin Star in the 2026 guide, Araf represents an intentional statement: that serious fine dining does not require a Bosphorus view, a celebrated address, or a hotel setting. What matters here is fire, technique, and the purity of Turkish flavors. The restaurant serves a single tasting menu nightly, changing with seasonal and available ingredients from the chefs’ producer network.

Quick Facts

Address	19 Mayıs Mahallesi Sümer Sokak Sümko N Blok No:1 AG, E İç Kapı No:2, 34742 Kadıköy, Istanbul, Turkey Google MapsApple MapsYandex Maps
District	Kadıköy
Metro	Kadıköy (M4, Ferry terminal; 10 minute walk to restaurant)
Best time to visit	The restaurant operates only Wednesday through Sunday, 19:00–22:00. There is no meaningful variation in crowd or experience; every seating is at capacity. Book during weekdays (Wednesday–Friday) if your schedule permits; weekend reservations book further in advance. Autumn and spring offer the broadest range of available produce for the tasting menu.
Recommended duration	2–2.5 hours
Cuisine	Contemporary Turkish, offal-focused
Reservations	Reservations essential; book 3–4 weeks in advance through the official website or phone +90 533 969 27 23. Walk-ins cannot be accommodated due to the 12-seat capacity. The restaurant operates a chef's tasting menu only (no à la carte ordering).
Website	arafistanbul.com
Operating status confirmed	October 2026

Reservations and Ordering at Araf

Reservations are essential and must be made in advance. Book through the official website at arafistanbul.com or by phone at +90 533 969 27 23. We recommend booking 2–3 weeks in advance for weekdays and 1 month for weekends. Walk-ins are not accommodated; the 12-seat capacity means the restaurant is fully booked during each seating window.

The restaurant operates a single chef’s tasting menu each evening. There is no à la carte ordering, and the menu is not published in advance. On confirmation, you may note dietary restrictions or strong aversions. Araf Istanbul adds a 12% service charge to the final bill, which increases the total once food and drinks are included. The restaurant does not offer delivery or takeaway.

Why Visit Araf?

Araf offers something uncommon in Istanbul’s dining scene: intimate, interactive fine dining without pretense. The 12-seat counter puts you within arm’s reach of the chefs, who explain each dish—its origins, ingredients, and cooking method—while you watch them work. The cuisine prioritizes Turkish offal and seasonal produce, transforming traditional ingredients using fire and technique rather than heavy sauces.

The restaurant’s Michelin recognition confirms the quality, but the real draw is the experience: a meal that feels like a conversation between chefs and diners, not a transaction. Few tables in Istanbul offer this level of direct culinary storytelling.

Highlights of Araf

The Counter and Open Fire

All 12 seats surround a single counter facing the open fire and kitchen. This layout is intentional: there is no separation between dining room and cooking space. You watch flames, smell charring herbs, and see each plate assembled. The fire gives dishes a structural character—char, smoke, and precision that distinguishes the food from cleaner European contemporaries.

Tip: Arrive early in your seating window (19:00 or 19:30) if you want to see the kitchen during prep; by 21:00, most of the evening's service is underway.

Offal as Foundation

The restaurant is known for its offal-focused dishes, a style referred to in Turkish as "sakatat." Expect grilled tongue with citrus vinaigrette, crispy brain with hot pepper jam and yuzu aioli, and slow-cooked kidney and lung. These are not afterthought garnishes but the main proteins, treated with the care and technique usually reserved for premium cuts.

Tip: If you are hesitant about offal, still book. The restaurant regularly prepares vegetarian dishes and can work around strong aversions, but reservations ask that you mention any dietary boundaries in advance.

Seasonal Tasting Menu

The tasting menu rotates constantly, written around what arrives from Çetinkaya's network of Turkish producers: mountain herbs from the Black Sea coast, Aegean olive oils, cured fish, valley vegetables that exist at the edge of commercial viability. There is no printed menu; the chefs decide the sequence and explain each course.

Tip: The menu is not published in advance. On your reservation confirmation, you may ask about typical courses or dietary concerns, but expect the experience to unfold as the chefs present it.

Direct Chef Interaction

Kenan and Pınar Çetinkaya welcome you warmly to their intimate restaurant, where capacity is limited. A seat at the counter offers the perfect vantage point to watch the chefs expertly tame the open fire (there are also a few tables in the conservatory). The chefs address diners by name, explain technique and sourcing, and respond to questions throughout the meal.

Tip: Engage with the chefs if you are comfortable. This is not a formal, distant service style; the warmth and hospitality are part of what earns the restaurant its recognition.

Michelin Star (2026)

Araf, led by Chefs Kenan Çetinkaya and Pınar Korgan Çetinkaya, receives its first Star for a tiny, characterful counter restaurant built around an open fire. It showcases a cuisine that prioritizes taste, product integrity, and technique. Their cooking is sincere and bold, revealing the depth of Turkish flavors in their purest form.

Tip: The Michelin Guide remains a useful signal of quality, but this star reflects the restaurant's approach and consistency, not flashiness or formality.

No Background Music or Spectacle

Kenan and Pınar Korgan Çetinkaya opened Araf as a deliberate statement: that a serious tasting menu restaurant did not need a Bosphorus view, a celebrity address, or a hotel lobby. What it needed was a fire, a counter, and enough discipline to let the cooking speak without theatrical distraction.

Tip: This is a quiet, focused space. If you prefer ambient music or a lively atmosphere, this may feel austere; if you value attentiveness and craft, it will feel clear-headed.

What to Order

• Crispy Brain (Çıtır Beyin) – prepared with hot pepper jam, yuzu aioli, pickled red onion, and sourdough bread
• Grilled Tongue – with spinach, orange vinaigrette, and sage breadcrumbs
• Kidney – fire-roasted, balanced with fresh hummus or yogurt sauce
• Lung Tantuni – slow-cooked lung with pita bread, crispy greens, dried peppers, and yogurt
• Seasonal vegetables – grilled artichoke, snow pea, beetroot, and peach dishes change with availability

Atmosphere

The space is small and focused. Twelve guests sit at a counter facing the open fire and chefs. The room is warm, quiet, and free of background music or distraction. You smell wood smoke, hear the hiss of flames, and watch the chefs move with precision. The atmosphere is intimate and conversational rather than formal. Kenan and Pınar are present throughout, explaining each dish and listening to diners. The cozy, family-like setting contradicts the fine-dining recognition; this feels more like sitting in a friend’s kitchen than entering a celebrated restaurant.

History of Araf

Araf opened in 2023. The restaurant was founded by chefs Kenan Çetinkaya and Pınar Korgan Çetinkaya, both graduates of serious culinary training who chose to depart from Istanbul’s established fine-dining geography—the Bosphorus hotels and prestige addresses—and instead anchor their work in a small space on the Asian side.

The opening statement was clear: a tasting menu restaurant does not require luxury framing, a view, or a recognizable address. It requires fire, technique, and producer relationships. In the Sümko N Blok building in Kadıköy, which houses other food businesses, the chefs built an open counter around flames and began serving a nightly menu of their choosing.

In 2026, Araf received its first Michelin Star for a tiny, characterful counter restaurant built around an open fire. This recognition affirmed what the chefs had intended: that sincere cooking, driven by ingredient quality and bold technique, can stand without theater or tradition. The restaurant has remained at 12 seats, and reservations remain sharply limited.

How to Get to Araf

By metro and ferry: The simplest arrival is via the Kadıköy ferry from the European side. The M4 metro line terminates at Kadıköy station; the ferry terminal is adjacent. Regular ferries run from Eminönü and Beşiktaş throughout the day and evening. From the ferry terminal, the restaurant is a 10-minute walk inland. Head southeast from the waterfront on Rıhtım Caddesi, then turn inland on Sümer Sokak. The Sümko N Blok building is marked; the restaurant entrance is inside the complex.

By taxi or car: Taxis from the European side charge a flat ferry crossing plus the distance. The building has minimal dedicated parking; confirm with the restaurant if you arrive by car.

Accessibility

The Sümko N Blok building is a multi-story residential and commercial complex. Araf is a small (12 seats), chef's restaurant with an open/integrated kitchen. The restaurant is not on the ground floor; you must climb stairs or take a narrow lift to reach the entrance. The counter and kitchen offer no wheelchair access or seated dining at a table away from the counter. If mobility limitations prevent counter seating, contact the restaurant in advance; there is a small conservatory area with a few tables, though it is not the primary dining space.

Food Nearby

The Sümko N Blok building and surrounding Kadıköy waterfront are lined with restaurants, cafes, and food stalls. If you arrive early or stay late, Kadıköy's main strip along the ferry terminal and nearby streets (Rıhtım Caddesi, Mühürdar Caddesi) offers kebab, fish, coffee, and pastry shops. The area is walkable and food-focused, but plan to eat before or after Araf, not instead of it.

What to Bring

Bring an appetite and an open mind about offal. The restaurant is indoors and climate-controlled. Dress code is smart-casual; formal dress is not expected, nor is athletic wear appropriate. Confirm any dietary restrictions or severe aversions when you make your reservation.

Photography Rules

Photography is permitted. Interior photography during the meal is acceptable; the chefs may even encourage it as part of documenting the experience. Flash should be kept minimal to avoid disturbing the focus of other diners. Tripods* are not practical in the small space.

Family Suitability

The 12-seat counter and two-hour tasting menu suit adults and teenagers (16+) who are patient and interested in food. The menu centers on offal and requires an open palate; young children typically lack the interest or ability to sit through a leisurely tasting menu focused on organ meats. The interactive, conversation-heavy service assumes diners who can engage with chefs and other seated guests. Bring children only if they are mature diners and enthusiastic about the cuisine.

Istanbul Vibes Tips

• Book your reservation as early as possible—ideally 4–6 weeks ahead. This restaurant is small and fills completely each evening. Late cancellations are rare; waitlists are minimal.
• Arrive 10–15 minutes early. The restaurant starts seating precisely at your reservation time. If you are late, your seating window may shift or be forfeited depending on the night's schedule.
• If you are uncomfortable with offal, still mention it during the reservation call. The chefs can often prepare a vegetarian or alternative tasting menu, but they need notice. Showing up and asking on the night limits their options.
• The ferry ride from Eminönü or Beşiktaş is a 15–20 minute journey and is part of the experience. Avoid arriving at Kadıköy by taxi if the ferry is running; the ferry is cheaper, faster, and more pleasant.
• The counter seats are the premium vantage point. When booking, note that counter seating is preferred if available; table seating in the conservatory is quieter but less immersive.
• Bring cash or a card accepted in Turkey. The restaurant adds 12% service charge to your bill; tip culture is not emphasized in Türkiye the way it is in some Western countries, so the charge typically covers gratuity.

Explore Nearby Araf

Metro stations near Araf

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  Kozyatağı – about 600 m away (~9 min walk)Open daily 06:00–00:00
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  Yenisahraabout 750 m away (~12 min walk)

Train stations and river piers near Araf

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  Kadıköy Ferry Terminalabout 6.4 km away

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FAQ: Araf

Can I book a table for just one person?

Yes. The restaurant accepts single diners, couples, and groups up to the 12-seat capacity. The seating is communal counter style, so you will be seated alongside other diners. If you prefer isolation or are uncomfortable with proximity to strangers, you may reserve a table in the conservatory area if available, though the counter is the primary experience.

What if I don't eat offal?

Contact the restaurant during booking and mention your aversion. The chefs can typically prepare a vegetarian or alternative tasting menu if given notice. Arriving without warning and requesting substitutions limits their flexibility. The menu rotates, so alternatives depend on what is available that evening.

Is there a wine pairing menu?

Yes, wine pairings are available and recommended to complement the tasting menu. The restaurant works with Turkish producers and can suggest pairings during the meal. Ask about wine options when you confirm your reservation.

How far in advance do I need to book?

Book at least 3 weeks for weekdays and 4 weeks for weekends. The 12-seat capacity fills quickly. If the date you want is unavailable on the website or phone line, it is fully booked; very few last-minute cancellations occur.

Is this restaurant on the European side of Istanbul?

No. Araf is in Kadıköy, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. You reach it via the ferry (15–20 minutes from Eminönü or Beşiktaş on the European side) or by metro line M4 to Kadıköy station, then a 10-minute walk.

Is the tasting menu fixed or can I order à la carte?

The restaurant operates a chef's tasting menu only. There is no à la carte ordering. The menu changes nightly based on available ingredients and the chefs' vision. You will not know the full menu in advance; the chefs explain each course as it arrives.

How long is the meal?

Expect 2 to 2.5 hours from seated to finished. The pace is leisurely; the chefs explain each dish, you interact with other diners, and courses are spaced to allow conversation and digestion. This is not a fast-paced meal.

Is there a dress code?

Smart-casual is appropriate. You do not need formal dress or a jacket. Avoid athletic wear or beachwear. The atmosphere is refined but warm, not stuffy.

Other restaurants nearby

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• Hacıbaşar (1.1 km) Google Maps
• Patlıcan Cafe & Ev Yemekleri (1.1 km) Google Maps
• zeythin (1.2 km) Google Maps

All restaurants in Istanbul – Kadıköy

Distances are straight-line, from OpenStreetMap data.

Local Dishes to Try Here

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  Tantuni (Tantuni)

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