Hünkâr Beğendi: Ottoman Lamb and Eggplant Purée Recipe

Hünkâr Beğendi — ‘The Sultan’s Delight’ — is a velvety, smoky eggplant purée enriched with butter and cheese, crowned with slow-braised lamb stew. This is comfort food that belongs to Ottoman palace kitchens, but it looks more complicated than it is.

When you make Hünkâr Beğendi recipe at home, the two components cook separately and come together on the plate. Most of the hands-on time goes into the lamb stew; the eggplant purée, once the eggplants are charred, comes together quickly. The recommended option is to char the eggplants over a flame for the fullest smoky taste.

Quick answer: Grill eggplants until the skin is burned to give them a smoky flavor, purée them, thicken with béchamel sauce, and top with sautéed lamb. Total time about 2–2.5 hours.

At a Glance

Type	Dishes
Origin	Ottoman palace kitchens
Servings	2–4 servings
Total time	2–2.5 hours (45–50 minutes lamb simmer, 20–35 minutes eggplant charring, 10–15 minutes sauce assembly)
Difficulty	Medium

History and Story of Hünkâr Beğendi (Hünkâr Beğendi)

Hünkâr Beğendi literally means ‘the sultan liked it’ and is one of the most refined dishes in Turkish cuisine. The invention of this festive dish dates back to the 19th century, to the times of Sultan Abdulaziz, who was a gourmet Ottoman ruler. French emperor Napoleon visited Sultan Abdulaziz in Istanbul with his wife Eugenie. One of her chefs accompanied the couple and joined the Topkapi palace kitchen crew. While roasting eggplants, the Ottoman chef saw the French chef preparing béchamel sauce for Eugenie and offered to mix the roasted eggplants with this thick white sauce. The chefs served this creamy invention for dinner together with a stew of game animals hunted by Abdulaziz and Napoleon earlier that day. The Sultan appreciated this new dish very much and gave inspiration to its name. Although it can now be described simply as braised lamb over silky eggplant purée, hunkar begendi owns the title of being the most civilized dish in Ottoman cuisine, not only because the recipe involves advanced cooking techniques for the time it was invented, but also because it represents one of the first examples of fusion in Ottoman cuisine, which was famous for being very conservative.

Ingredients

• 500 g boneless lamb (leg or shoulder), cut into 3 cm cubes
• 3–4 medium eggplants
• 250 ml whole milk
• 50 g butter
• 40 g all-purpose flour
• 50 g hard cheese (kaşar, kasseri or similar), grated
• 2 medium tomatoes, diced
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 15 ml tomato paste
• 2–3 ml lemon juice
• Salt and ground black pepper to taste
• Dried thyme and oregano (½ tsp each)
• 500 ml water or light stock

How Hünkâr Beğendi (Hünkâr Beğendi) Is Made

Step 1: Char the eggplants

Cook the eggplants on a barbecue grill or over an open gas flame, turning occasionally by the stalks until the outer skin is charred and blistered and the inner flesh soft. This typically takes 20–35 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover for 10 minutes, then peel away the skins while the flesh is still warm.

Tip: To make the purée more fragrant bake the eggplants on an open fire; gas is good but charcoal adds an extra layer of flavor. The oven grill is a good alternative.

Step 2: Prepare the lamb stew

Heat a little oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Season the meat with salt and pepper and add to the pot, stirring occasionally until evenly browned. Add the chopped onion and garlic, and when these are sizzling, add the chopped tomatoes. Continue cooking until the juice has evaporated.

Tip: The meat should be at room temperature and needs to be dry. Use paper towels and pat dry the meat.

Step 3: Build the stew

Add the tomato paste, hot water and red pepper paste, cover and simmer over low heat for about 45–50 minutes until the meat is tender. Tomato paste gives depth, diced tomato loosens the base, and mild pepper paste brings a soft red color and gentle warmth.

Tip: The meat stew can be prepared ahead of time, usually one day earlier. This enhances the flavors.

Step 4: Make the béchamel sauce

In a medium pan melt the butter on medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 2–3 minutes stirring till it gets ivory color and nutty aroma. Let cool for half a second, pour in the milk and whisk till the flour dissolves. Return to low heat and bring to boil stirring constantly. Cook stirring for 3–4 minutes till the sauce thickens.

Tip: Whisking as you pour the milk prevents lumps from forming.

Step 5: Finish the eggplant purée

Drain the eggplant flesh in a fine sieve for 10 minutes, then chop it finely with a knife and stir in the lemon juice. Off the heat, mix in the eggplant flesh, cheese and salt. A small amount of lemon juice in the eggplant helps preserve a pale color and keeps the purée from tasting heavy.

Tip: After baking or grilling the eggplants clean the flesh, cut into pieces and place in a colander to drain as much liquid as possible. The flesh should be almost dry before adding to the bechamel sauce.

Step 6: Plate and serve

Spread the eggplant sauce over the bottom of a serving platter or individual plates with a slight shallow area in the middle. Add the lamb stew in the middle of the eggplant sauce and serve with bread on the side.

Tip: Warm the serving dishes before plating so the dish stays hot.

Variants

• Some versions use beef instead of lamb with a creamy roasted eggplant puree.
• The eggplant can be mashed roughly for texture or blended until completely smooth and strained for a silky sauce.
• Some recipes omit cheese from the béchamel sauce to keep the smoky eggplant flavor prominent.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Some recipes add cheese to the beğendi sauce, but it will very quickly overpower the aubergine, making the sauce taste like a standard cheese bechamel instead of the sultan's delight.
• Skipping the charring step for the eggplants. The eggplants must be grilled until the skin is burned to give them a smoky flavor. Baking alone misses this essential taste.
• Not draining the eggplant flesh. Excess moisture makes the purée watery; allow it to drain in a sieve before mixing with the sauce.
• The meat must be browned, then simmered gently until it turns soft enough to press with a spoon. Overcooking on high heat toughens it.
• Adding the cheese while the béchamel is still very hot. Remove from heat, add the cheese and stir so it melts evenly.

How to Order and Eat It

Hünkâr Beğendi is served on a plate or platter with the creamy eggplant purée as the base and the warm lamb stew spooned on top. Eat with bread to soak up the sauce. The dish is eaten warm, not hot, so the flavors come through clearly. A light salad on the side complements the rich, smoky nature of the dish.

To order: Hünkâr Beğendi lütfen [Hunkar Begendi lutfen]

Diet and Allergens

• Contains dairy (milk, butter, cheese)
• Contains gluten (flour)
• Lamb-based

Istanbul Vibes Tips

• Hünkâr Beğendi is a dish where timing matters. Each part needs care — start the lamb stew first so it has time to become tender while you work on charring and preparing the eggplants.
• Roughly chop the smoky aubergine rather than blending it unless you want an extremely silky texture; some texture difference between the purée and the meat stew adds interest to the plate.
• This is not a quick weeknight dish. The lamb needs 75–90 minutes of gentle simmering, so plan ahead or make the stew a day in advance.
• Gas flame charring gives the best smoky taste, but if you don't have access to a gas burner, a hot oven or broiler works well when an open flame is not practical, though the result is milder.
• Add lemon juice to the eggplant purée to help preserve a pale color and keep it from tasting heavy.
• This dish does not freeze well because the eggplant purée becomes watery. Make it fresh or a day ahead, and store the components separately in the refrigerator.

Where to Find Hünkâr Beğendi (Hünkâr Beğendi) in Istanbul

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FAQ

Can I make this with beef instead of lamb?

Yes, Hünkâr Beğendi can be made with lamb or beef. Beef works well, though lamb is traditional and has a richer flavor that pairs better with the smoky eggplant.

Why is charring the eggplants important?

The eggplant is grilled until the skin is burned, giving it a smoky flavor. This smoky taste is essential to the dish — it gives the purée its depth and character. Roasting in an oven alone misses this key flavor.

What cheese should I use?

Traditional kaşar cheese is used; mild mozzarella or young kasseri may stand in. Any hard, mild cheese that melts smoothly works. Avoid very sharp or crumbly cheeses.

Can I make the whole dish ahead?

The meat stew can be prepared ahead of time, usually one day earlier. This enhances the flavors. Make the eggplant purée fresh on the day you plan to serve. Store both covered in the refrigerator.

What if my eggplant purée is too watery?

Place the eggplant flesh in a colander to drain as much liquid as possible. The flesh should be almost dry before adding to the bechamel sauce. If it is still watery after draining, press it gently with paper towels*.

Is this gluten-free?

Traditional Hünkâr Beğendi is not gluten-free because the béchamel sauce uses wheat flour to thicken it. You can substitute a gluten-free flour blend (1:1 ratio) if needed, though the result may be slightly different.

How much does this serve?

This recipe with 500 g lamb and 3–4 eggplants serves 2–4 people, depending on appetite and whether you have side dishes. It is quite rich, so smaller portions go a long way.

Can I use an oven instead of a flame to char the eggplants?

Roasting the eggplants directly over a gas flame gives the strongest smoky taste. A hot oven or broiler works well when an open flame is not practical, though the result is milder. Set the oven to 220–245°C and broil the eggplants until the skin blackens and the flesh collapses.

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